The editors of Videomaker have created this list of free video editing software and other types of free video software downloads, to enhance your movie making software tool kit. The link to free video software downloads will open a list of free video editing trial offers. The sites we have selected can save you lots of time by providing free stock music, sound effects, video and graphics files.
We are continually reviewing new video editing software. If you are looking for the best editing software for video you will benefit by first going to our video software review section. If you are seeking more information about how to edit video, you will want to read some of the many free tutorials we offer on the subject.
If you have spent a while adjusting a picture to your liking in Photos app for Mac, you can easily apply those image adjustments and edits to other pictures in Photos app as well.
This is accomplished through a handy but little-known copy & paste adjustments ability, and it’s quite easy to use.
Essentially what you’re doing is adjusting one image and then you’ll be copying those adjustments (but not the image) and applying them to another picture. Here is how it works in Photos app for macOS and Mac OS X, using the same copy and paste shortcuts you’re already familiar with.
Copy & Paste Photo Adjustments on Mac
Open Photos app on the Mac if you have not done so already
Double-click on any picture and choose “Edit” as usual, then make adjustments to that picture as you typically would (adjustments to brightness, color, sharpness, vignette, etc)
When satisfied with the image adjustments, go to the “Image” menu and choose “Copy Adjustments”
Now return to the primary Photos app browser and open another picture, then choose the “Edit” option again for the new picture
Go to the “Image” menu again, this time choosing “Paste Adjustments”
The image adjustments made in the prior image edits are now applied to the picture
Repeat for additional pictures if desired
This offers a really great way to apply bulk image color corrections and other fine image adjustments to many pictures.
The video below demonstrates the copying of image adjustments and pasting of the same adjustments to another picture, in this case it’s copying specific black and white photo settings and applying them with the paste effort:
At the moment there is no ability in Photos app to select multiple pictures and paste adjustments across them, but perhaps a future version will enable that as well.
I use this often when applying a vignette to pictures in Photos app, since the vignette adjustment tends to be a generic enough adjustment that it looks good on just about any picture where you want to use one to draw focus to the middle.
This 720mb bundle contains 50 images, mostly of landscapes, all in hi-res JPG format. The images range in size from 4928 x 3264 pixels, to 7360 x 4912 pixels, making them big enough even for print work. The set is divided into several categories for easy access: Landscape, Nightscape, People in Landscape, Winter, and Spring.
The images come with an extended license, meaning they can be used in personal and commercial projects, you can also use them in non-digital products that you sell, and even in digital products provided the original image can’t be extracted.
We’re making the Nik Collection available to everyone, for free.
Photo enthusiasts all over the world use the Nik Collection to get the best out of their images every day. As we continue to focus our long-term investments in building incredible photo editing tools for mobile, including Google Photos and Snapseed, we’ve decided to make the Nik Collection desktop suite available for free, so that now anyone can use it.
The Nik Collection is comprised of seven desktop plug-ins that provide a powerful range of photo editing capabilities — from filter applications that improve color correction, to retouching and creative effects, to image sharpening that brings out all the hidden details, to the ability to make adjustments to the color and tonality of images.
Pixlr is a fun and powerful photo editor that lets you quickly crop, rotate, and fine-tune any picture, free.
Can’t afford Adobe’s Photoshop? Want to work on photos on your web browser without any software installation? Then you should check out Autodesk’s Pixlr, a free alternative photo and image creation tool that works in your browser. In this episode, I give you an overview of this great web app!
Take your social media photography to the next level
Instagram and VSCO Cam are great apps but if you want to take your shots to a new level of creativity and give it that cinematic edge, use Lens Distortions. Although it might not apply to every shot you take, it will definitely enhance your shots with an artistic edge.
Look no further. Get the app. Now.
Just the right touch
by Surreal Media Lab
Very clean effect. I like to create artistic photography on the go. And with the lens distortions it gives me the ability to give my photos a HD quality refined touch that I’ve been searching for. I’m a fan!
The fog and lens flare are pretty good, I’ve hidden parts of this one photo without making it noticeable that I edited it. To the dude who says it crashes, like with all apps, if it crashes, restart phone and the app -fixes crashes forever. Cheers.
Quick. Simple. Easy. And so is today’s blog entry by Aleida Guevara on Pinterest, which I should really take more advantage of. Click here or below to download this Photographer’s Cheat Sheet, if you’re a beginner, to put in your camera bag.
Many of you have asked me, why in this new digital age is a light meter necessary? When everything is immediate, as well as right there on an HD monitor for your review, WHY the light meter? I have mentioned in the past that Roger Deakins feels like he can be much more of a risk taker with digital. What you see is what you get. RIGHT! He has a point. When you are infusing LUTs (look up tables) on your monitor and lighting to those specs, why would you need that old light meter that reads the values of illumination?
“Building Light Memory”
The light meter is essential for matching and to get your head around light ratios as a young cinematographer. If you look on the monitor and you like the way it looks, the mood and the color tone, then get in there and read those levels and read the color temperature. These are all building blocks of your memory of light.
From the time that I wake up till the time I rest my head on my pillow, I never stop looking at light. Inspiration is everywhere. I take snapshots, little instagram shots and store them in my mind. Now you have images to pull from when you are lighting a scene. Say you went to a really trendy bar and you loved the light and mood. Store that mental snapshot. When you are set to light a club/bar scene, use that mental snapshot if it fits the story and emotion of your creation. Download it into your lighting, levels, color and mood.
Training your eye to all the ratios that you like and want to deploy comes with experience. But matching is a huge issue, especially when shooting a feature or a short film. Why? Well, so many times you are asked to go back and do pickups. Maybe you missed a shot, or you screened the movie to an audience and they were confused on some things. You need to go back to the location or the set and duplicate the light. If you did not take light meter readings or mark down the color temp of your camera, you are flying blind. I go in there once I have lit the original scene and grab as many readings as possible to help in this process. Now you have your edit, so you can go back and look at the levels and try to match what you originally shot off a monitor. Why not have this as a tool to help in this process?
“Light Meter Calibration”
(for a whole lot more on Reading a Light Meter: Tips and Tricks, click here)
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Our contributors include, Sal Cincotta, Sue Bryce, Lori Nordstrom, Jennifer Rozenbaum, Vanessa Joy, Jason Groupp, Skip Cohen, Taylor Cincotta, Laurin Thienes, and many others.
Photography training and education courses don’t have to cost an arm and a leg. Shutter Magazine is geared towards giving you the photography training and education you need in all aspects of your business. Best of all, its free!
You can energize a conversation with photographers in innumerable ways. You could, for example, try to build a case for Nikon over Canon, or perhaps argue that sensor size doesn’t really matter. Or you could advocate using protective filters on all of your lenses.I find the third topic intriguing, for both advanced shooters and newcomers alike. What filters, if any, do you need for your lens? Several appealing options in a range of prices are available.
Let’s start with the different types of filters. I recommend three to consider: protection, polarizer, and neutral density. In the world of protection filters, those commonly used are clear, UV, Skylight, and Haze. Here’s a quick overview.
UV—Typically, this filter is very pale yellow to virtually clear. In the past, UV filters helped protect your image from the negative effects of atmospheric ultraviolet radiation. But thanks to the improved high-tech coating on today’s lenses, these filters don’t have much impact on image quality at lower altitudes. Some effect may be noticeable at high altitudes, however. Their primary use today is to protect the lens itself.
Skylight—Light pinkish in color, this filter can help correct the slight blue cast from shooting outside under a blue sky. Some photographers see benefits for their landscape photography. I don’t recommend this filter for portraits because it can affect skin tones.
Haze—This is essentially another name for a UV filter.
The above filters were very popular in film camera lenses. But with digital cameras, we can now counteract the mild effects of UV light with the white balance settings in our cameras. So, even though UV and skylight filters do have some mild filtering effect, they are primarily used as protection filters.
I recommend that you use a high-quality, multi-coating glass filter if you want protection for your lens. You don’t really need UV or skylight under most outdoor lighting conditions.
Specific protection filters
I typed the term protection filter into the search box at B&H Photo. Among the hundreds of results listed, here are a few good examples:
Tiffen 52mm UV Protection Filter ($5.20) This filter helps absorb ultraviolet light, reduces the bluish cast of daylight, and serves as a general protective filter.
Hoya 58mm EVO Clear Protector Filter ($57) This offers a clear filter for protection, a low profile, and a rigid, aluminum filter ring. The coating prevents surface reflections.
Heliopan 72mm Protection Filter ($780) A clear filter for protection, the SH-PMC provides a 16-layer multi-coating, brass ring construction, and high-quality Schott glass.
That’s quite a price spread among three filters of different sizes and different qualities. Generally, you don’t have to use a UV or skylight filter if all you’re after is protecting the lens. A clear filter is all you really need. Here are three things to consider when choosing this type of filter:
Multi-coated surface to help improve contrast and reduce reflections. For best results, the quality of the filter should be on a par with the quality of the glass in your lens.
Appropriate thickness for the type of lens you’re mounting the filter on. On my 16-35mm wide-angle zoom, I have a filter with a thin mount so it doesn’t cause vignetting when the lens is set to its widest field of view. For my long zoom lens, such as a 70-200mm, it doesn’t make any difference how thick the filter mount is.
Brass or aluminum for the mount. The theory is that brass mounts tend to be easier to unmount from the lens than their aluminum counterparts. Some photographers believe that they don’t “freeze up” as often, when they then require a filter wrench to remove. I don’t have any conclusive data on the superiority of a brass mount, but I will say that I like the feel of brass better.
The two main benefits of a polarizing filter are to reduce or eliminate reflections on some surfaces and to darken a blue sky. The most widely used type, the circular polarizer, has two glass elements. Depending on the angle of the light, you can increase or decrease the polarizing effect by rotating the front element.
Polarizers are effective for both color and black and white photography. They can add drama to a sky, clarity to an object in water, and saturation to foliage in a landscape. As with protection filters, look for multi-coated polarizers with high-quality mounts. Keep in mind that polarizers are dense and will usually absorb two stops of exposure.
Since polarizers tend to be relatively expensive—up to $250 for a 72mm mount—you may want to buy the size for your largest diameter lens, then purchase cheaper step-down rings to mount the filter on your other lenses. But I like to have a polarizer for each of my major zooms.
Neutral Density filters
For photographers who like to shoot at wide apertures or use slow shutter speeds, even in normal daylight, neutral density filters are a valuable asset. They come in two basic types: single density and faders.
Single-density ND filters are commonly available in the following options:
ND.3 = 1 stop exposure adjustment
ND.6 = 2 stops exposure adjustment
ND.9 = 3 stops exposure adjustment
ND1.2 = 4 stops exposure adjustment
You can buy them individually or in a kit. Kits typically run $100 to $200.
The second type, variable neutral density filter, sometimes referred to as “fader ND filters,” are often seen in ranges of 2 to 8 stops of exposure adjustment. You choose the density by rotating the outer ring of the filter. I’ve seen faders as cheap as $35 and as expensive as $350.
What’s best for you?
Outdoor and event photographers should consider a high-quality protection filter when working in the field. If most of your work is in the comfy confines of a studio, adding an extra layer of glass shouldn’t be necessary.
Polarizing filters are particularly handy for landscape artists. I also like to have one in my camera bag to help me tame reflections when working in contrasty light.
And if you like to shoot at wide apertures for shallow depth of field, or want to slow the shutter for a soft, flowing-water effect, then ND filters are certainly worth the price. Videographers also are big fans of ND filters to help them control depth of field when working in bright conditions. In a pinch, you can use a polarizer to help reduce light to the sensor, since it absorbs two exposure stops too.